Making a 3D Printer?

We stock a range of hardware to help the do-it-yourselfer build 3D printers. We’ll tell you exactly how to make these yourself from scratch if you really want to. Customers outside New Zealand do not pay GST :)

Thermocouple Extruder Hot End

The ingredients are: An 25mm PTFE rod, 40mm M6 brass bolt for the heater barrel that we drill out to match 3mm or 1.75mm filament, M6 brass dome nut machined into the 0.45mm nozzle, 4 Ohms of nichrome wire and a K-Type Thermocouple. Available here.

We also supply PTFE thread seal tape for those of you with the old style of interchangable nozzles. We can do 18mm PTFE but strongly recommend the more robust 25mm fibre re-enforced PTFE.

 

Wade Extruder Hobbed Rod/Bolt

These are the drive rods for a Wade-type extruder; the part that grips and pushes the filament into the Hot End. The rod we make is a 75mm M8 rod with an M4 hob 33mm from one end, slotted to avoid plastic build-up. As the whole thing is threaded you can move nuts around to align the hobbed bit with your extruder’s filament. Normally we supply them for 3mm filament, but make 1.75mm to order.
We also sell hobbed bolts, to fit the Diamond Age Wade extruder. These bolts are 50mm M8, with a M4 hob. Available on request for NZ$8.50 (plus GST where applicable).

 

Assembled Wade Extruder

For those who just want a new extruder, we can supply a fully assembled Wade-type 3mm or 1.75mm extruder using a NEMA17C015 stepper and made to fit two M4 50mm mounting holes.

 

Arduino Mega

We import generic Arduino Mega 1280 clones from China and sell them off really cheaply to get you started. Available on request for NZ$43.82 (plus GST where applicable).

  T5 Belt and Pulley

GT2 Belt and Pulley

Drive Belts and Gears

We used to stock E-Sky 800mm model helicopter belts for use as RepRap drive belts, but they have been phased out for T5 6mm wide Polyurethane belts and GT2 fibre-backed 6mm belts which we sell by the metre, as well as their respective pulleys.

608 “Skate” Bearings

The archetypal bearing for M8 studding and 8mm round rod, used on RepRaps throughout the ages.

Printed RepRap Parts

Not a regular stock item because designs change all the time, but do ask. We may well have a complete set of printed parts of our own printers lying about as we are constantly prototyping new designs.

Little Fans

Let’s be honest – we sometimes overdrive our stepper motors slightly in the pursuit of speed. Putting a little video card fan on the back of the stepper will drop its temperature by about 20C and stops it from melting its way out of your RepRap!

Stepper Motors

We don’t sell those, and we don’t sell stepper drivers either I’m afraid. A lot of users have Pololu stepper driver modules, which are theoretically beefier but the EasyDrivers are available locally and work well for me.

 

30 comments on “Making a 3D Printer?
  1. Marcelo says:

    Hi. What is the average cost of parts to build a medium sized printer? 20cm x 20cm x 20cm print area.

  2. steve pipe says:

    Hi Tamara
    I have sent an email that asks what the difference is in performance between you two models of 3D printer aside from print size. Can you easily explain this to me?
    Thanks Tamara
    Steve

  3. Igor says:

    Hi,
    I realise the questions may be dated by a couple of years but I have seen yout hotend design and wanted to ask – does it really work? The brass rod does not fall out of the PTFE tube when heated? Are you still selling these hotends?

    • Tamara says:

      Yes it really does work, in fact we are still using a similar method today! The only variation is we now use Fibre-reinforced PTFE which removes the bulging issues we occasionally had before. (Earlier we had made do with a hoseclamp to keep it together). Hotends and their variations can be found here.

  4. Do you guys melt down/extrude your own filament? Work is throwing out 50+ of these office chair plastic mats (see photo), thought they might be usable?

    Matt

  5. Tom Olliver says:

    The translation you requested (from a translator):

    >>From Budapest in Hungary comes the DirectDrive Wheel

    The Mini hyenas that I ordered from indiegogo arrived today。From receiving the notification that they had been shipped on Monday from arcol.hu in Budapest, Hungary, it took them 3 days to arrive. The world has certainly become smaller.
    My contribution is the Mini hyena 11×5 and 8×5、$12 each × 2 = $24.
    I had been interested in the DirectDrive for quite some time, but I hadn’t yet tried it, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to try this out. The DirectDrive’s primary use is probably for the MK7 Drive gear created by MakerBot, however the shipping fee for ordering it as a single item was comparatively high, so I was a little reluctant to buy it. So I was very grateful to find the parts being sold by arcol.hu
    indiegogo seemed to have been successful in making 2 times the target amount for their funding, and the demand for the DirectDrive seemed to be high. There are even DirectDrives being sold in Mr Vik Olliver’s Diamond Age Solutions Ltd. but I wonder if that’s for Mendel Extruder Single 608 & No Epoxy
    I would like to try experiencing the DirectDrive straight away, however, currently I’m in the middle of getting confused with how to work on retrofitting the MendelMax1.5that is sat on my desk ^-^; I guess I’ll have to do it on the weekend(s).
    <<

  6. Tom Olliver says:

    Hi,

    Do you ship to the UK, or could you recommend a good stockist here for material and parts?

    Thanks,
    Tom.

  7. Julien says:

    I am looking to build a 3d printer, I am from Canada so maybe your not the best placed to ship parts.

    However I was curious to know why nobody tried to you liquid metal in a 3D printer. I am talking about the liquid metal formula specially devised to be paint. It is used to make real metal (cheap bronze, siver, ect) object for cinema or arts.

    I beleive it could be done with a tiny sprayer or electromagnetic device (the metal does have electric properties) to force small droplets in place (like we do with electron canon in TV).

    • Vik Olliver says:

      One way of doing it is to strap a MIG welder onto a robot arm. It causes a lot fo splatter so is not very precise, but produces very solid artifacts.

      We have produced “lost wax” castings using translucent PLA cores instead of wax and successfully cast in a variety of materials from pewter to stainless steel.

  8. Dave says:

    Heya

    what size are your “little” fans?

    – I would like one that mounts between the x-carriage rails of my Prusa so less that 40mm wide?? If so, will put one or two down on my next order..

    thanks

  9. Andy Crowe says:

    Hey Vik,

    Just wondering if you sell the parts for the Wade Extruder excluding the Stepper Motor. SO everything except the motor.

    Cheers,
    Andy

    • Vik Olliver says:

      Yes, certainly. No problem. Ask “sales” for a Wade printed parts kit, Wade hardware kit, Hobbed Bolt and Hot End of your chosen filament diameter.

      Vik :v)

  10. Sid says:

    Hi

    I have finished building the orca v0.2. Got it to print and stuff. But I am having some calibration and tuning issues. I think I am going around in circles. I dont think my mechanical construction is upto standards. I am based in Auckland so any help would be gladly appreciated.

    Thanks

    • Vik Olliver says:

      You’re welcome to drop in to the shop if you’re ever in Henderson. Bring your laptop or something to make it print and we’ll take a look. If you’re more in the central city, there is Tangleball.org.nz, a fine bunch of folks who have seen 3D printers before!

      • Sid says:

        Hi

        Thats great, Thanks. I will let you know as soon as I will clear up my schedule. I can visit during the day on a weekday? I will let you know anyway.

        Thank you.

        • Vik Olliver says:

          I’d suggest getting Easter out of the way first. It’s hard to predict exactly what we’ll be doing until after the chocolate egg festival.

  11. Paul says:

    According to google translate, that text is japanese and says…


    I think there was interest but, still I did not try, to try and direct drive to dabble in this opportunity before from people […]. MakerBot MK7 Drive gear is made ​​of that would have been most used for direct drive, it is more expensive shipping charges are ordered separately did, was to buy a little shunned. These parts are being sold very grateful but arcol.hu. The successful and about twice the amount of funding also targeted at indiegogo, in high demand as a direct drive. It also sells direct drive Diamond Age Solutions Ltd. Mr. VikOliver, kana 608 & No Epoxy Mendel Extruder Single. […]

  12. Yvo says:

    Hi
    Awesome to have found 3D Printing Supplys in New Zealand.

    I just built two Ultimakers at the New Media Design School and started printing last week.

    But now i managed to break one of the Hotend Nozzles and wonderd if you maybe have spare hardware for these Printers.

    • Vik Olliver says:

      We don’t stock the Ultimaker nozzles, but we do have some parts that might be useful and can always print a new extruder if worst comes to worst. What’s broken?

  13. Layne says:

    Hi,

    I’m after a set of T2 belts.
    Do you have any more information on the belts listed above?

    Thanks,
    Layne.

    • Vik Olliver says:

      They’re for E-Sky model helicopters and the pitch appears to be a bit finer than T2 – I’m afraid the manufacturer’s information is terse and in a script I do not recognise. I make my own drive gears because I haven’t found any that fit on an NEMA17 shaft. However, I am investigating a hand-lathed NEMA17/E-Sky drive gear adaptor in brass that will have a final gear diameter of 6mm. I also hope to offer a printable gearing system that will allow one Z motor to be used without a drive belt.

  14. mark says:

    Hi,

    I am building a reprap Prusa Mendel and have so far aquired:

    – All plastic parts needed
    – Threaded rods, smooth rods, nuts bolts, washers, bearings (basically everything for the frame)
    – I will be building the extruder

    Now all I need is:

    – The hot end
    – And all the electronic/electrical components.

    I preferably want all the electronics sold in one kit fully assembled.

    So my question to you is can you help me with the hot end or can you sell me a full kit of electronics?

    Preferrably RAMPS or Sanguinololu.

    My website portfolio is attached for some interesting viewing about a lego 3d printer me and my group made when back at university.

    http://markowbridge.carbonmade.com/projects/2368283#1

    Thanks,

    Mark

    • Vik Olliver says:

      We can certainly sell you a hot end. The electronics is probably not as hard as you think. A lot is made of this and that board, but if you’re reasonably confident at wiring things up all you need is the Arduino, 4 stepper controller boards and a TIP122 transistor. Screw the boards down, wire them up manually according to one of the basic wiring diagrams on the web or pinout that comes with your firmware. Make a “Spoondriver” circuit to power the heater using the TIP122 and some terminal strip. Maybe your thermistor needs a few resistors, but that’s about it.

      Repair and cooling ventilation are much easier :)

  15. Dion says:

    Hi,
    I am trying to source a set of printed parts to build my own 3d printer

    Are you able to help?

    Thankyou

    • admin says:

      Certainly, just email “sales” and we’ll get you fixed up. We’ve belts and gears etc. too.

  16. Vik Olliver says:

    If anyone could post a translation in English, I’d be greatful.

    Vik :v)

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